“ Brand: Isabel Derroisne / Type: Fragrance / Concentration: Eau de Toilette / Gender: for women „
Group: Oriental floral
~ INTRODUCTION ~
Having loved Ilaya, a lovely woody oriental eau de toilette I bought untested from the Isabel Derroisné line, I decided to collect some of the other fragrances in the line as miniatures and see if they are just as nice as their sister fragrance and maybe discover another gem. Recently, I won a bid for a collection of four Isabel Derroisné miniatures and 'Pour l'Amour de l'Inde' was one of them.
~ THE PERFUME HOUSE ~
Having been around since 1996, Isabel Derroisné is a relatively new perfume brand from Paris and have produced 16 ladies' fragrances to date. She distinguishes herself and her perfumes by drawing inspiration for her ingredients and compositions from different cultures and continents such as Spain (Andalucia), Italy (Ame Toscane), India (Pour l'Amour de l'Inde) or Africa (Ilaya) and by using natural essences in her fragrances.
~ THE PACKAGING ~
The orange-tinted bottle has a triangle shape that's slightly curved at the bottom whilst the stopper is an orange cap in a shape that reminds me of the long style of a calla lily. The carton box is decorated with a golden floral / vegetal pattern on a vibrant yellow, orange, red and violet background.
~ THE FRAGRANCE ~
Top notes: tagetes, pepper
Pour l'Amour de l'Inde starts out with a prominent, floral smell that reminds me of a mixture of lily and bitter orange. Soon the bitterness takes over and in a few seconds I realise there's something amiss. I expected an enchanting, oriental bouquet, instead I find a somewhat orangey sweet but a dominantly herbal and bitter accord that becomes the only dominant note in this phase that will last for about 20 - 30 minutes.
Middle notes: jasmine, cardamom, rose
The arrival of the heart somewhat lets me off the hook, at least I can start appreciating other ingredients such as rose and jasmine. Sadly, the rose is adulterated by the tagetes. Instead of a dewy and velvety appearance that a good quality rose should bring, it's sour and almost bitter in comparison. With time, the jasmine does develop too into a fluffy, creamy or let's say ice-creamy mixture with some vanilla mingling within, the main problem is it never loses the harsh and bitter edge of marigold. This phase will last quite long, up to 8 hours.
Base notes: sandalwood, vanilla
The fragrance gradually shifting towards its dry down meant a bit more vanilla and less and less jasmine. I was still holding out for a nice finish with the promised earthy-woody sandalwood that finally didn't happen. I got no sandalwood at all! My nose was still picking up some jasmine but it had an exclusively vanillic theme. The vanilla felt plain, like cooking vanillin and not at all the real and rare vegetal vanilla.
What added to the disastrous finish was that the vanilla had a bitter undertone to it which I couldn't really pinpoint. Was it the damned tagetes again at play? Or the elusive sandalwood? Surely no, it can't be that bad?! To say something in favour, the staying power was excellent clocking in at about 9 - 10 hours in total.
~ CONCLUSION ~
I've tested this fragrance on several occasions to see I'm not missing something. Unfortunately, the results were always the same: overpowering bitter and 'cleaning-product'-smelling marigold. I don't think the perfume has turned, that would have been immediately noticeable.
On a footnote, my disappointment could be down to the fact that I did not like the smell of marigold in this perfume. I don't mind marigold in gardens (my mum has had them for decades in hers), though I wouldn't class them as having a particularly pleasant smell either.
The question is rather who and why had thought that tagetes is an appropriate ingredient for a perfume strongly marketed as India-inspired is beyond me. Tagetes is widely cultivated in India but so is jasmine, lily and rose that should have got a more substantial role here. Not the mention the world's most expensive perfume ingredient, Indian sandalwood.
This eau de toilette fails to succeed due to other, more objective reasons too. Firstly, I found that the bitter marigold note was present in all phases and I could detect it even days after I sprayed it on some clothes meaning the composition was way off balance. Jasmine tends to be a dominant note in orientals, here it was only a whisper and felt unnatural. The base was also weak, undeveloped and linear where it should have been the opposite which any decent oriental scent will demonstrate.
~ PRICE AND AVAILABILITY ~
I haven't seen this variety commercially available any more. I assume that due to its unpopularity and relatively distant launch, it has been discontinued.
If you're a miniature collector it can be found as a 7.5ml Eau de Toilette though prices can fluctuate between £5 - £15 as I understand the flacon is a rarity.
Thanks for reading.
©powered by lillybee also posted on ciao.co.uk